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Late Summer and early Fall give us some sure-fire bets on fishing in the Central Rockies.
If you are on the water and fish are rising everywhere but you can't see what they are coming to the surface to eat, it's a pretty sure bet that you're in the middle of a monstrous Trico hatch and just don't know it because they are so small. One way to sort things out is to check the banks at the edge of the river. If it's covered in tiny black bugs lapping against the shore, you've found your answer - Tricos.
One important issue to keep in mind, is that those fish taking Tricos on the surface are probably a lot smaller that the older, wiser, and BIGGER fish that are gulping them down under the surface where you can't see their pasty trico covered lips slurpin' down all those delectable tiny specks of Trico food. Keep that point in mind when rigging up to fish these hatches.
You can try a grasshopper as a strike indicator and drop a couple of dry size 24-26 trico flies about 2-4 feet below it and place them about 14 or so inches apart. I gauge the distance between my trailing flies using the point of my elbow and the middle or base of my fingers as my arm is stretched out. It seems to work fine. The fish seem to like it anyway.
But if you really want to catch fish, ditch the hopper and add an extra fly to the end of the rig spaced the same distance apart as the other two. Put some weight ahead of the first fly by the same spread of your elbow to fingers and place your strike indicator 2-2.5x the depth of the water.
Create your leader/tippet/fly rig as follows: Start with a 9' 4x flourocarbon knotless tapered leader, add 2-3' of 5x fluorocarbon tippet, then 2' of 6x fluorocarbon tippet and tie on the first fly. Then tie 14-16" of 6x fluorocarbon tippet to the curve of that hook and tie on your next fly. Finally, onto the curve of the 2nd fly, tie 14-16" of 6x fluorocarbon tippet and tie on a copper john or other bead-headed bug - not glass or plastic, though, and tungsten if you can get it.
Add your weight 14-16" ahead of the first fly then place your strike indicator 2-2.5x the depth of the water you are going to fish.
Let 1-2' of fly line out of the tip of the rod and let the whole ungainly rig run downstream from you to get started. When you've got some line tension developing downstream, look upstream to the point just above where you want to present all these flies and cast so that the weight on your leader lands right there and the rest of the rig lands upstream of that.
Casting this complicated rig is possible if not simple - your cast should start slow to get the whole mess moving and like a Nike swoosh placed upside down, you should arc up and speed up to a stop pointing further down than normal to open your casting loop and keep all those flies, weight and the strike indicator from crashing into each other and making God's own perfect and sickly beautiful knot - one that all but priests and monks will run away from in terror. You can do it. I have faith.
After the whole mess hits the water in a perfect line of strike indicator, weight, fly 1, fly 2, and fly 3, carefully mend your fly line to remove unwanted drag from the indicator and flies then take the fly line/leader slack off the water. If you only have 6-12" of leader touching the water between you and your strike indicator, that should be just about perfect. If your strike indicator stalls, dips, pops, ducks, hesitates or looks like it forgot something and needs to go back and get it, do a VERY gentle down-stream set. If the line goes ape-crazy you've got a fish and need to keep tension steady on the 'pesce' by raising your rod tip and taking in any slack in the line/leader. Aim the fish where you can land him. Get out your net. Fish ON!
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Patagonia Ambassador Mary Osborne Surfing with Water Cam
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